When we arrived at the Sanlitun store, +J’s card was really much bigger.

However, there is no lively scene of queuing for the goods on the night of the sale, and the rest of the styles are still complete a week after the sale.

Most people pick up one or two pieces and make gestures in front of the mirror, then go to the basic section to turn around.

I am different from them, and I have to force it.

The moment I put on the 1999 yuan coat, I know it’s not to blame for minimalism, but for my simple thinking.

Even though I took the minimum size of the “155/80A” store, my height of 165cm was the same as that of Bai, and I became a goblin.

Looking up at the model pictures on the wall, I wonder how tall the models must be to keep their coats above their knees.

Changed a coat, as long as you are afraid of the cold and fasten the button, don’t think about any more tailoring silhouettes.

I posted pictures in the editorial department, and Orange always said that she thought of her aunt.

+J’s recommendation for down jackets reads “feminine charm”, and I do feel the tailoring of the waist.

But still the same sentence, as long as you want to keep warm and fasten the zipper, you will immediately dream about the anti-season sales of down jackets of Xue X Fei and Nan X people at the beginning of this century.

The most surprising thing is the short coat, which turned me into a noble and magnificent vampire.

It’s just that when I wanted the whole model to look in the same style, I found that my shoulders were too narrow to be able to stand up, and my neck was too short, which caused my face to be smeared in half, and I felt suffocated.

It won’t help even if I become a minimalist black and white style.

I am not the only one who feels that there are problems everywhere when wearing +J.

In the post of Douban Uniqlo Group Discussion+J, the “disappointment” with clothes and the “no”Nai” has become a high-frequency word.

Searching for “UNIQLO” at station B is all Amway videos; but if you search for “UNIQLO+J”, the first result is the weeding of fashion UP master “AHALOLO”.

In the video that was topped to the previous video, there was another UP owner named “Miracle Bun 666”, who tried on as an ordinary consumer, staged a fashion tragedy, and said “please contact me from Uniqlo opponents”.

According to the observation of a Uniqlo store employee in a new first-tier city, the +J series did not sell very well even on the day it was released. When the KAWS co-branded T-shirt was released last year, the video of the store’s rolling shutter door being squeezed was popular online.

The feedback from the second-hand market is more direct. The premium for reselling +J series on Xianyu is up to 30%, while the premium for KAWS co-branded T-shirts is generally 400%-500% when they are first released.

Of course, this employee also pointed out that the unit price of the +J series is higher, which is not comparable to the KAWS series.

But the 99 yuan KAWS joint T-shirt is the essential reason why people like Uniqlo’s joint models and designer cooperation models: you can have a big name at the price of Uniqlo.

And it’s best to be able to tell at a glanceBig name big name.

The positioning of +J seems to be embarrassing: it looks too much like a basic model, but the price is several times more expensive, which completely loses the stimulation to consumers, but causes another psychology: “It is better to add more money to buy Yes, why buy a Uniqlo?”

A staff member of Uniqlo’s China headquarters revealed: “+J is very successful overall. It exceeded its sales target for the first week, online sales were higher than offline, and the return rate was within the normal range.”

What is Uniqlo thinking about launching this less grounded +J series?

+J outside the fashion draft, big fame ≠ good business

Many people who have never heard of the +J series before will also be attracted by the “return of the legendary series classics” mentioned in the introduction of Uniqlo.

Look at the designer’s introduction again. Labels such as “pursuing the ultimate”, “perfectionism”, and “never compromise with business logic” make Jil’s clothes look more attitude.

Jil Sander in his youth

However, the first cooperation between her and Uniqlo 11 years ago was very consistent with Uniqlo’s business logic.

Prada acquired the brand named after her before, but she and Prada have different development concepts.

Prada wants to expand its accessories business, but Jil insists on devoting most of its energy to designing ready-to-wear garments, not shoe and bag accessories; Jil’s obsession with expensive fabrics has led to high prices for clothes, which directly affect sales, Prada also bears Not coming.

In 2004, she simply left her brand and went back to her hometown in Hamburg to raise flowers.

She said in an interview in 2009: “At that time I felt a loneliness that I had never had before, because I was too used to working with my partners before.”


Jil Sander’s early 1990s design work

It was also that year that she chose to re-emerge in Uniqlo: “I want to see if my design concept can succeed in a wider customer base.”

Uniqlo has also carefully designed sales strategies. In 2009, Uniqlo opened its flagship store in Paris, and the +J series chose to debut in the European and American markets that day.

On that day, Parisian fashionistas, who were always cold, lined up in front of the flagship store; while in New York, where Uniqlo has not conquered, the team outside the SoHo store had already circled the block for a week, realizing that “you did not love me yesterday. Li, today I make you unable to climb high.”

A similar situation has played out in China.

In 2010, the flagship store on Nanjing West Road, Shanghai opened in the heat of the World Expo.The +J series has changed Uniqlo’s brand image-the previous Uniqlo was still a “bargain-price hypermarket” in China, and even in order to keep prices down, consumers simply choose fabrics that are different from those in the international market.

Through the +J series, UNIQLO has gained a few ranks from its opponents at the time, Meters Bonwe and Baleno, and this is the only way to pull the legs out of the mud.

Uniqlo Shanghai Nanjing West Road Store opened the grand occasion

The +J series gave Uniqlo the first taste of the sweetness of co-branding with top designers, but it also suffered.

Jil is still the same Jil, who has an almost paranoid desire to control everything. She has to stare at how each button is sewn, and she also has to take care of how to shoot the promo.

According to a report by The Bund Pictorial, Uniqlo followed the usual Japanese retail industry and included the +J leaflet in the newspaper. This behavior made Jil angry.

In the initial cooperation agreement, Jil wanted to supervise almost all ready-to-wear garments, including the basic items of the main line, but in the end she only focused on the +J series and was only responsible for designing well-tailored skirts and cashmere sweaters.

Uniqlo also began to pay a price for design due to excessive tilt of resources, and the performance of the Japanese domestic market has declined. In 2010, 80% of Uniqlo stores were opened in Japan, and the local market is the absolute foundation.

The loss of basic benefits is of course no way to agree. The two parties interrupted the cooperation that had just been renewed for three years.

According to “China Business News”, Yanai Zheng later attributed the +J series to “a mistake.”

“We put too much emphasis on fashion models and neglected the basic models. We have to take a different path from Zara and H&M.”

So in the past few years, Uniqlo has only become the way we remember the basic models silently, and it has occupied the wardrobes of more and more people around the world.

Now, Uniqlo, which is heading to the top again, has the ambition to “become advanced” again about to move.

Re-understand Uniqlo, there are as many ambitions as it is simple

If you compare Uniqlo to a classmate in school, people first think of being a type that gets along well with everyone, is practical and kind.

In fact, UNIQLO is more like the type that usually doesn’t show up and scares everyone when the test results.

“Inexpensive” makes everyone not aware of the strength of this brand, let alone think about its huge ambitions.

When he first founded Uniqlo, Yanai Masao put forward his goal to “surpass GAP and become the world’s number one clothing retail brand.”

By this year, GAP could not even pay the rent and announced its withdrawal from the Chinese market.

At the same time, Uniqlo still maintains an average rate of adding 7 stores per month.

As of the end of August, the number of UNIQLO stores in China was 767, surpassing that of Japan. Yanai said that he hopes to open 3,000 stores in China in the future.

E-commerce has developed more rapidly: For the sixth consecutive year, it has been ranked No. 1 on the double eleven men’s and women’s apparel brands, and e-commerce can still achieve a year-on-year growth rate of 20%.

Masho Yanai has long stopped paying attention to GAP. He said in an interview with China Business News several years ago: “It’s better to make GAP work harder.”

Relying on Uniqlo, the market value of the parent company Fast Retailing Group has recently surpassed the H&M Group, and the first Zara parent company IndThe gap between itex Group has narrowed to an unprecedented level.

At this time, we will re-launch the +J series, conveying a message: In the new round of development competition, Uniqlo’s most important card is no longer “cost-effective”, no longer “high-tech”. It is a way of life.

Shanghai International Import Expo Uniqlo Exhibition Area

Although people’s impressions of Uniqlo generally remain “fast fashion focusing on quality” and “cheap basic models”, Masa Yanai has always emphasized that Uniqlo’s brand image is not like this: “We are not a fast fashion company, we It sells style, especially lifestyle.”

In 2013, Uniqlo’s slogan has changed from “Made For All” to “Life Wear”.

Uniqlo brand brochure

Masaka Yanai also said in 15 years that “we are not a technology company” and denied the position of the technology company that “want to compete with Apple”.

Earlier, Panning, CEO of Uniqlo China, took a taxi and heard a broadcast: “The total number of domestic and foreign outings during the Golden Week that year reached 150 million”

He has realized that this group of rising middle class and new middle class are the core consumer groups that Uniqlo needs to fight for.

Facing these consumers