Miss and Hanfu are our spring.

Editor’s note: This article is from WeChat public account “ Tencent University ” (ID: tencent_university ), The author Fei Han, the original title was: “Xi’an Miss Dumbler’s Beauty is overflowing the screen: but I fancy her clothes.”.

Recently, the “Sister of Dumbler” in the Datang City of Xi’an has become popular all over the network. The player, Pika Chen, dressed in Tang suit and hand-cranked the small fan of ancient style, incorporated the movements of classical dance in the tumbler performance. Attracted countless overseas tourists to watch, and became popular all over the network. The popularity of the “Sister of Tumbler” has also drawn Hanfu into the public eye.

Behind the

Weibo @ 晨 丫头 呀

According to the “2018 Chinese Hanfu Industry Report”, as of the end of 2018, China’s Hanfu enthusiasts had exceeded 2 million people, and the total size of the Chinese Hanfu industry that year was about 1.087 billion yuan. The number of Hanfu merchants on Taobao soared from 7 in 2005 to 815 in 2018. At the same time, in 2018, the total sales of Hanfu related to Taobao and Tmall platforms were 921 million yuan.

The Hanfu economy has finally “broken the circle” and is beginning to be accepted by more people.

What is Hanfu

Although Hanfu has been more and more in people’s sight, there is no official definition of Hanfu so far. Baidu Encyclopedia interpreted it as “the traditional costume of the Han nationality”, centered on the Chinese etiquette culture, and formed a unique Han nationality character through natural evolution, which is clearly different from the traditional clothing and accessories system of other nationalities. At present, the main styles of Hanfu popular in the Hanfu circle include Wei-Jin waist-length skirts, Tang-style chest-length skirts and large-sleeved shirts, as well as the Song skirts and Ming-dynasty skirts and horses.

Who likes Hanfu?

Today, post-90s and even post-95s have become the main crowd in the Hanfu market.

According to the Beijing News, there were about 1,300 Hanfu associations worldwide in 2017, and more than 2,000 in 2019, a 46% increase in two years. Young people love Hanfu, with 86% of users under the age of 24. 87% of users are women, women are Han

The strong appeal of Chinese traditional culture, China is getting stronger and stronger, and the Chinese are becoming more confident. The charm radiated from traditional culture has formed a huge magnetic field, which has caused more Chinese people to pay attention to and love Hanfu. The identification of national culture is here embodied into the identification of Hanfu, which means the identification of the nationality. This also gives guidance on the values ​​of spiritual and material consumption surrounding the Hanfu culture, and the rise of the Hanfu culture naturally comes naturally.

But at this stage, the public is just beginning to accept Hanfu, and the entire Hanfu cultural market is far from the scale and popularity of today.

Development: Film and television works help society become more inclusive

Behind the

Hanfu culture has been developed rapidly in recent years, largely thanks to the influence of film and television works and IP.

The well-produced film and television works and big IP such as “Langya List”, “Knowing No” and “Changan Twelve Hours” attract more and more young ethnic groups. Hanfu has also spread through the east of film and television IP. Among them, Hanfu Shanghualian and Han Zhilian officially launched 14 co-branded Hanfus, which went on sale for nearly three hundred weeks. These young users aged 18-30 are affected by these popular film and television IPs, and want to experience the characters in the drama, so they can enter the han Hanfu.

In addition, the mobile Internet has also accelerated the spread of Hanfu culture. Short video platforms such as Douyin can be said to be an accelerator for the spread of Hanfu culture. The search for Hanfu in Douyin has been played at least 22.4 billion times. There are also a lot of netizens on Weibo showing photos and videos of themselves in Hanfu. Relevant communities and discussion groups on the Internet are also very active, and Baidu’s “Hanfu Bar” has finally exceeded one million in 2019.

Behind the

At this stage, young people who love Hanfu are not all about reviving Hanfu or cultural heritage. Some young people are more in the role of role-playing or show their unique personality. As for whether you really understand the profound cultural and historical core behind the Hanfu, it is not necessarily true.

But for cultural heritage or forIn order to show individuality, Hanfu has developed a lot in different degrees. Ten years ago, wearing Hanfu on the street, people’s eyes were more incomprehensible, as strange costumes. Today, the entire society is more tolerant of the diversity of dressing, and has given more understanding and tolerance to individual choices. This has enabled the public to understand and accept the behavior of wearing Chinese clothes on a socio-psychological level, which has also promoted the further development of the Chinese clothes culture.

Hanfu is still a niche market

Hanfu is gradually coming out of the circle, which brings the Hanfu market to gradually boom. It can be seen from the Taobao data alone. Since December 2018, Taobao Hanfu sales have increased by 146% year-on-year, and Taobao sellers are also growing.

Behind Xi'an

At the level of Hanfu production, a complete industrial chain has been formed from artwork design, material transportation, processing, and sales. In addition to the sales of Hanfu, derivative services such as Hanfu Photo, Hanfu Experience Hall, Hanfu Rental, and Hanfu Weddings have also emerged.

The activities surrounding Hanfu have also begun to increase, and many places are rushing to host the “Hanfu Festival” or related activities. The most famous of these is the Xitang Hanfu Cultural Week, founded by Fang Wenshan in 2013, and has held 6 sessions so far. Its supertalk reading on Sina Weibo has reached 110 million. Official media such as the People’s Daily and the Communist Youth League Central Committee have also popularized knowledge about Hanfu on many occasions.

Although Hanfu has gained a certain degree of spread and prosperity, it is still a niche market in terms of the whole society and culture. The sales of Hanfu in 2018 accounted for only 1% of the total clothing sales for the year. The Hanfu industry is still far from daily consumption. Investigating the reasons, some problems of the Hanfu industry itself have not been solved, which has restricted its further development.

Lack of uniform standards makes it difficult to dailyize

The main reason for those who oppose or do not accept Hanfu is that “Hanfu cannot be routine.” Most of the current Hanfu is indeed far from people’s daily habits. If Hanfu wants to truly become a fashion and fashion, it is accepted by more and more people. It must satisfy comfort, convenience and adapt to daily life, which shows that the dailyization of Hanfu is a problem that must be solved.

In the Hanfu circle, there are many different factions such as the visible faction, the neutral faction and the reform faction. The shape school emphasized strict observance of historical data, while the reformists believed that in order to promote the daily use of Han clothes, they should be improved to a certain extent.

The opinions of supporters of different factions cannot be unified. They also adhere to their own standards for purchasing Hanfu.p>

In addition, the lack of supervision of the Hanfu second-hand trading market has spawned scams. After the increase in sales of small and medium-sized manufacturers, in order to rush to work, problems such as product quality degradation also plagued the Hanfu market, which hindered the development of the Hanfu market to varying degrees.

As a carrier of Chinese traditional culture and national spirit, Hanfu has important cultural significance and value orientation. The rise and development of Hanfu reflects on the one hand that Chinese people have paid attention to costumes that represent traditional Chinese culture and appreciate Hanfu as beauty and fashion. It has shown that people are more confident and yearning for Chinese culture. For tolerance.

The revival and even the rise of Hanfu is also in line with the current trend of content consumption, but due to various reasons, Hanfu is still a niche category, and the rise of Hanfu is a longer road.

References

The hanfu you wear is beautiful, but in all likelihood it is a cottage

2019 Hanfu brand TOP50

Advancing “Hanfu Circle”

Hanfu market: the total size of the industry is more than 2 million, and the total scale of the industry is about 1.09 billion yuan.

Business opportunities and cultural popularity driven by a Hanfu

How did Hanfu become popular?