This article is from WeChat official account:Mining number (ID: washu66), author: dig number, the original title:” Xiamen, Zhangzhou, feelings and Taiwanese cuisine, a Chaoshan roots “, the title figure comes from: vision China
As a Chaoshanese, when I first came to Guangzhou to study, I always felt out of place. Why is the difference between Cantonese and Chaoshan dialect? If it weren’t for watching TVB since I was young, I couldn’t communicate in Guangzhou at all; why the food in Guangzhou is so light and rice noodles only Put soy sauce, why do you like to eat sour sour? Ginger vinegar eggs and radish sirloin are sour, not used to it.
Later I went to western Guangdong, Foshan, Yunfu, Yangjiang, to Wuzhou in Guangxi. I found that they all spoke Cantonese and the food was very similar. I was curious about how different I was as a Cantonese. It was only after the history of the two ethnic groups, Cantonese and Southern Fujian, that I was at a loss.
According to Wikipedia, Cantonese is the largest ethnic group among the “three ethnic groups” of the Lingnan Han nationality. They are widely distributed in Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Hong Kong, Macao and some overseas countries or regions. They are different from foreign Hakka ethnic groups. It is related to the Min people, and the population of Cantonese originating in Lingnan accounts for nearly 60% of Guangdong Province, and Guangzhou and Foshan are the birthplaces of “Cantonese Culture”.
The Chaoshan people belong to a branch of the Fujian family, the Yongjia Rebellion of the Western Jin Dynasty (311), the Anshi Rebellion of the Tang Dynasty (755~763), Northern Song Dynasty Jingkang Rebellion(1126~1127) At that time, the people of southern Fujian moved all the way south from the Central Plains. The migration route was from the Central Plains to the south of the Yangtze River, and then into Fujian. In the Song and Yuan Dynasties, a large number of people moved from Min(Min is The abbreviation of Fujian) into Chaoshan, So there are Chaoshan people.
Historically, the Cantonese and Chaoshan people are different ethnic groups, and their language and eating habits are naturally different. Geographically, the Chaoshan area is far away from Guangzhou and Foshan, but closer to Fujian’s Zhangzhou and Xiamen. (The Chaoshan area mainly includes Chaozhou, Jieyang and Shantou 3 prefecture-level cities)
So I started this journey of seeking roots from Xiamen to Zhangzhou.
Xiamen Zhongshan Road and Gulangyu Island
It takes about 5 hours from Guangzhou to Xiamen Station by high-speed rail.
Xiamen is an elegant and exquisite city, and this exquisiteness can be felt from the moment you get off the high-speed rail. Walking out of the high-speed rail station, there is an overpass with BRT buses on the opposite side. The overpass is covered with vines and flowers. Behind the overpass is a tall building with different heights but very coordinated.
About 4 kilometers away from the high-speed rail station is the famous pedestrian street-Zhongshan Road. There are many old-style arcade buildings along the street.
Fujian people are very good at eating. Before 7 o’clock in the morning, snack bars along the street opened one after another. The sizzling sound of frying and the ding-dong sound of stirring the porridge and water constantly stimulated oral saliva secretion.
I immediately felt at home when I saw these fried things. Fried shrimp cakes, shrimp rolls, fried steamed buns, these Chaoshan streets are also everywhere.
Xiamen’s rice rolls are the same as Chaoshan. They also like to put many things. This one contains oysters, shrimps, meat rolls, sausages and lean meat. The sauce is also Chaoshan’s thick peanut butter and soy sauce. The taste is very similar.
The difference is that Xiamen is much more expensive, so a rice roll costs 16 yuan.
The Shaxian snacks spread all over the country originated in Shaxian County, Sanming City, Fujian Province.
Every building on Zhongshan Road has such a historical charm. This Siming Cinema was built by overseas Chinese in 1927.
The spotless road is probably all the touristThe characteristics of the city.
There is a Xiagu Wharf 3 kilometers away from Zhongshan Road. You can go to Gulangyu for a round trip with a boat ticket of 50 yuan.
It covers an area of less than 2 square kilometers and has a population of about 20,000. In 2005, China National Geographic ranked Gulangyu as the first most beautiful urban area in China, and it is also a 5A-level scenic spot.
In 1902, Gulangyu was once the public concession of 9 countries including the United Kingdom, the United States, and Japan. 13 countries successively established consulates on the island. This is the reason why there are so many foreign-style buildings on the island.
Nowadays, many buildings have been converted into restaurants and guest houses. The sweeper said that this house was bought 10 years ago for 10 million and turned into guest houses.
The urban area has more buildings than trees, and Gulangyu has more trees than buildings. Trees are the aboriginal people on the island.
There are many snack and drink shops along the street. The owner greeted the tourists enthusiastically and let us stop and taste the homemade scented tea. The Hokkien-style mandarin is soft and seems magical. You can’t help but stop and linger.
Many buildings are painted in colorful colors, giving it a feeling of Alice’s candy house.
Plants and architecture are integrated.
Unconsciously walked into a long tunnel.
I was pleasantly surprised to find a lot of love graffiti in the tunnel.
The lettering from other scenic spots here is annoying, but the graffiti here makes people feel warm.
Not far from the tunnel is the seaside, the sand is white and fine, and there are yachts on the seaPeople hire.
After visiting the beach, we returned to the city from Sanqiuhe Wharf on Gulangyu Island.
At night, I had a seafood dinner, boiled squid, small yellow fish soup and seaweed boiled oysters.
Talking to a Didi driver in Xiamen, the driver said that the housing price in the busy area of Xiamen has reached more than 100,000, and the average house price is 40,000 to 50,000. The average price of a second-hand house in Xiamen on a certain platform is as high as 48,432 yuan per square meter, which is in Guangzhou. 1.5 times, close to Shenzhen, the housing price of a second-tier city is actually higher than that of a first-tier city!
After reading the answer to the question “Why are Xiamen housing prices so high?” on Zhihu, there are probably the following reasons:
1. Xiamen has a strong attraction to the elites in Fujian Province, and many rich and powerful people have a suite in Xiamen;
2. Islanders think that they must have a house;
3. Covering the land, the land supply is scarce.
These reasons are probably just the tip of the iceberg. The figure below shows that Xiamen’s housing price-to-income ratio is similar to that of Beijing. (House price-to-income ratio = total housing price per household ÷ total annual household income per household, the higher the value, the more you can’t afford to buy a house)
If the housing price-to-income ratio is equivalent to happiness, people who work and live in Changsha, Urumqi, and Shaoguan are probably the happiest.
Zhangzhou Ancient City
Zhangzhou is the Fujian prefecture-level city closest to Chaoshan, and it takes less than one hour to reach Zhangzhou from Chaoshan High-speed Railway Station.
Xiamen Station gives people an exquisite feeling, while Zhangzhou Station gives people an atmosphere.
The bus in Zhangzhou will announce the station in Hokkien. After listening carefully, I can understand it. It turns out that Chaoshan dialect is a dialect of Hokkien.
Zhangzhou is full of shacha noodle restaurants.
The so-called shacha noodles are made with shacha sauce mixed with beef bone soup, used to boil the noodles and beef, it tastes fresh, salty, sweet and spicy.
The thick pot in the middle is shacha soup.
Shacha sauce was popular in Southeast Asia in the early days, and then spread to southern Fujian and Chaoshan. Wikipedia shows that shacha sauce is diluted with cooked peanut oil, peanut butter, and sesame sauce, and then mixed with sauteed garlic, minced onion, and shrimp paste. , Bean paste, chili powder, five spice powder, rue powder, grass fruit powder, turmeric powder, chopped chives, ground coriander seeds, mustard powder, dried shrimps, ground fragrant leaves, ground cloves, ground lemongrass and other spices, together with sugar , ShengSmoked, coconut milk, refined salt, monosodium glutamate, chili oil, stir-fry thoroughly, take out and cool.
Teochew also has Shacha Kueh, the difference is that Chaozhou uses Shacha dry mix, there is no soup.
Chaozhou Shacha Kueh
Although Zhangzhou is not as prosperous as Xiamen, the roads are the same clean.
There is an ancient city to the west of the city. Many buildings in it are said to have been preserved from the Tang and Song Dynasties to the present.
The feeling of first entering is similar to that of other ancient cities such as Dali, and there is no distinction.
Look again, the memorial arch is very distinctive. The characters are all traditional and written from right to left. It should be something from the Republic of China period.
The relief has a strange feeling of a mixture of Chinese and foreign.
I turned a corner and saw this archway street shuddered. Isn’t this the same as the archway street in Chaozhou? !
In ancient times, rulers advocated ethics and set up archways to commend those who were outstanding in virtue, merit, and courtship in urban and rural areas.
The difference is that the archway on Chaozhou Arch Street was rebuilt in recent years, and the traces seem to have a long history here.
There are many tall buildings outside the ancient city. After a hundred years, those tall buildings will become the ancient city of the future.
A Pien Tze Huang Museum next to the ancient city is particularly eye-catching.
Pien Tze Huang is a specialty of Zhangzhou, and it is also one of only four Chinese medicines under national first-level protection. The other three are donkey-hide gelatin, Longmu Zhuanggu granules, and Yunnan Baiyao.
Pien Tze Huang has existed since the Ming Dynasty. In recent years, it has been smashed by the market. The market price of a Pian Tze Huang has soared to more than 500. There are many Pien Tze Huang National Medicine Halls in Zhangzhou City.
Zhangzhou is a city with many temples. There is a temple next to almost every real estate in the urban area. This is more like Chaoshan.
Zhangzhou is also a city with many foods, and there is always something suitable for you when you walk around the street.
Houses in Zhangzhou like to repair this triangular roof.
Take the high-speed rail from Chaoshan, and you will know that Fujian is here when you see this summit.
The area near Zhangzhou Wanda Plaza is a relatively prosperous area. The distance between high-rise buildings here is relatively wide, without the oppression of big cities.
Comparison
1. The ratio of house price income to Zhangzhou crushes Xiamen.
In 2019, the average annual salary of non-private employees in Xiamen was 97,193 yuan and Zhangzhou 77870.
A certain platform shows that the current average price of second-hand houses in Xiamen is 48432 and that in Zhangzhou is 12865.
If the average second-hand housing price divided by the average salary is used as the housing price-to-income ratio, Xiamen is 0.5, Zhangzhou is 0.165, and Xiamen is more than three times that of Zhangzhou.
Of course, this is just a general comparison. Xiamen is obviously better than Zhangzhou in terms of employment opportunities and upside. After all, there are far more companies headquartered in Xiamen than in Zhangzhou.
But working in Zhangzhou, the probability of finally being able to buy a house and settle down is definitely much higher than that of Xiamen.
2. In addition to the sense of belonging and security in buying a house, a large part of it is also because the house binds children’s education. How does the quality of education in Zhangzhou compare with Xiamen?
I found a piece of the number of students who entered the top 50 in Chinese and the top 100 in science in the 2019 college entrance examination in Fujian.
After statistics, the following data are obtained:
There are 5 schools in Xiamen on the list, namely 32 from Xiamen No. 1 Middle School, 17 from Double Shi Middle School, 5 from Xiamen Foreign Language School, 2 from Yingcai School, 1 from Tong’an No. 1 Middle School, 57 people in total;
Zhangzhou has 4 schools on the list, including 5 Zhangzhou Experimental Middle School, 1 Zhangpu No. 1 Middle School, 1 Zhangzhou No. 1 Middle School, and 1 Zhangzhou Zhengxing School, totaling 8 people. (Xiamen and Zhangzhou have similar populations, both are about 5 million)
From the above data, it can be seen that Xiamen’s education should be much better than Zhangzhou.
From another perspective, the data shows that Xiamen No. 1 Middle School and Zhangzhou Experimental Middle School are the best high schools in the two cities respectively. If Xiamen No. 1 Middle School is 10 points, Zhangzhou Experimental Middle School should have 7.5 points.
Also suppose that the child is enrolled in the best elementary schools in the two cities from elementary school, and there is a high probability that he can enter the above two high schools in the future.
The best primary school in Xiamen is the Xiamen Experimental Primary School. The degree room is 84195~131533 yuan per square meter, with an average of 100,000.
The best primary school in Zhangzhou is the Zhangzhou Experimental Primary School. The average price of a degree housing is about 16,000 square meters.
Xiamen is 6.25 times that of Zhangzhou, and the price-performance ratio of Zhangzhou education crushes Xiamen.
3. The built-up area of Xiamen is 334 square kilometers and Zhangzhou is only 54 square kilometers, but the large urban area only means that there are many places to visit. Zhangzhou actually has everything, Wanda Plaza, Starbucks, etc. I think I have stayed in big and small cities These ones