Source | New Weekly (ID : New-weekly)

Author | Hutong

This taste is not only a childhood memory, but also a dusty hometown.

—— 《China on the Tip of the Tongue》

From a business perspective, Michelin has succeeded in China; but when it comes to persuasion, Michelin still has a long way to go.

Unless they can understand it, even explain in their own words all the lines in “China on the Tongue.”

When Michelin came to China in September 2016, “China on the Tip of the Tongue” had been broadcast for four years, and the Chinese’s original chaotic diet system and taste rivers and lakes had been well organized.

Michelin can’t come, Chinese people eat with great interest.

It’s like a chair grabbing game. The latecomers are helpless in the eyes of the public. Michelin is now in such awkwardness-ridiculed as not knowing China or even food.

Despite all kinds of doubts, no one can deny that Michelin made it.

01. Suing Michelin

Everest in the heart of the cook, thatIt was the little red flower in Michelin’s hand.

“Looks beautiful” video screenshot

This company was originally a car tire company. During the Paris International Exposition in 1900, it was determined that car travel will definitely be prosperous, so the tires will also sell well.

In order to promote the rise of the automobile industry (tire consumption), Michelin has collected maps, gas stations, restaurants, hotels, auto repair shops and other information that can help car travel, and published the Michelin Guide , Of which the gourmet category has a red cover, and the booklet is given to customers free of charge.

Michelin founders Edward Michelin and Andrew Michelin brothers

Thirty years later, Michelin’s food-related portion has been widely spread, and the market response in Europe is no less than today’s online celebrities punch. Michelin changed shape and became the master of Yuda in the western food industry.

The Asian people later discovered that the restaurants selected for Michelin were, without exception, fancy dishes and cumbersome dining ceremonies, and they had a far-sighted and indecent mindset on this list.

But when Michelin really entered Asia, people became more and more awareWell, Michelin is not God.

A Korean chef has even sued Michelin recently.

Eo Yun-gwon / CNN
, Chef Ristorante Eo, Seoul Italian Restaurant

On November 15, Korean chef Eo Yun-gwon submitted a lawsuit against Michelin to the Seoul Metropolitan Government. He opened an Italian restaurant called Ristorante Eo in Gangnam District, a city full of rich people in Seoul. The restaurant was rated a one-star restaurant by Michelin in 2017 and 2018, and was picked in 2019, but it is still on the recommended list .

When his restaurant reappeared in this year’s 2020 Seoul Michelin Guide, this guide was basically defined by him as a class enemy.

He did not hate Michelin for picking stars. On the contrary, when he was rated as a one-star restaurant by Michelin in 2017, he emailed Michelin to delete the recommendation about his restaurant, but he never succeeded.

He sees Michelin’s rating as a delusion that violates his dignity as a chef.

A lawsuit filed on the grounds that the restaurant was forcibly included in the list against the will of the restaurant without clear criteria,The picture shows the receipt of the Central District Prosecutor’s Office in Seoul. / CNN

“There are many restaurants in Seoul that are of the same level as the restaurants they rated, even higher and more honest. The ridiculous thing is that they think there are only 170 restaurants in Seoul,” said Yun Yunquan.

“You must not relax for a moment, waiting for a test that does n’t know when it will come. Chefs waste time and money in pursuit of Michelin stars, but they do n’t know what they judge based on. When I asked the official Michelin I wo n’t get any answers. “

Yin Yunquan said that he didn’t know how he rated the stars at all. In his opinion, this is the biggest offense to a chef.

“I know that being included in the Michelin Guide will make business better, but I did n’t ask for my consent when I was selected, and I did n’t respect my opinion. I do n’t need this opacity and Subjective agencies to rate. “

Michelin posters played by early people

He has accused Michelin of violating a South Korean law on “public insult”, and once convicted, Michelin will need to pay 500,000 to 3 million won ($ 420 to 2,500).

02. Mysticism and French Standards

In the eyes of Yin Yunquan, Michelin is “like a ghost”. He doesn’t even have a specific contact phone number. The contact method can only be email.

This is fully reflected in the movie “The Chef in Love”. The top chef played by Bradley Cooper has repeatedly emphasized to his waiter: “No one knows their identity, no one ! “

Michelin has put the chef in a dilemma of identity recognition in pursuit of stardom and creation of cuisine. / “Cooking Chef”

This is the secret recipe for the Michelin Feast feast.

In China, Michelin is also laid out this way.

In 2004, Stefan Stiller and his wife moved to Shanghai to settle down and work in catering. Since then, he has heard rumors of “Michelin is coming” almost every year.

But when Michelin actually arrived in China, it was already 2016.

Michelin press conference in Shanghai. Pay attention to partners and feel his business model. / Michelin official website

In recent years, food writer Gao Yan has often visited restaurants with reputation in Shanghai. She remembers that before and after the Spring Festival in 2016, a waiter told her that “suspected Michelin has come, a foreigner and a Chinese.” “I asked several of them, basically such people.” Gao Yan recalled.

Stiller has also heard once again that Michelin will publish a guide for Shanghai in 2016. But he remained skeptical. It wasn’t until Michelin’s gourmet detective came to his restaurant for a meal and handed a business card after payment that Stiller confirmed that Michelin had really arrived.

Stiller was asked to fill out a form including “Who is the boss”, “Business and