This article is from the official account:
One eleventh holiday, holding a little partner to Chongqing, finally went crazy.
According to incomplete statistics, during the November, the number of passengers at Chongqing Railway Station and Airport exceeded 1 million, and 253 A-level tourist attractions received 11.08 million passengers.
However, according to another incomplete statistics, there is a small noodle restaurant in Chongqing that sells more than 1,000 bowls a day!
This warm fate noodle restaurant, because Xiao Zhan came to eat at the beginning of the year, fans have come to experience the small noodle culture. They must order the “Xiao Zhan same style” set meal-two and two small noodles, two Two peas, add fried eggs! Paired with plastic benches, Chongqing street scenes can be eaten together, very local.
▲ “Xiao Zhan’s Same Set Package” in Warm Fam Noodle Village
© Dianping Dianping
No wonder someone on Weibo said: “Xiao Zhan has made Chongqing noodles popular!”
▲The CQTV host posted on Weibo saying that Xiao Zhan returned to “home” and became popular with Chongqing small noodles
But is Chongqing small noodles popular with celebrities? Yes, it is not.
1. What is Chongqing small noodles?
Small noodles are always the top stream of the mountain city.
Although tourists from Chongqing may have eaten tens of thousands of hot pot during the eight-day holiday, they may have eaten 100,000 small noodles before then.
According to incomplete statistics for the last time, there are more than 80,000 small noodle restaurants in Chongqing, while there are about 400,000 small noodle shops in Chongqing outside—this is the Chinese noodle world, the only king who can compete with Lanzhou beef noodles.
Take Beijing as an example. The Fat Girl Noodle Shop in Beixinqiao sells Beijing’s most authentic pea noodles, fatty intestine noodles, wolf teeth potatoes, brown sugar glutinous rice cakes, and almost all food lovers living in Beijing have tried it. . The taste is really good. The peas are raked enough and the intestines are delicious. The only drawback is that the queue is too long. It takes an hour to wait for 100 meters, and the stomach is hungry. The Xiongji Chaoshou on Gulou East Street is the “late night canteen” of many rock youths. A bowl of dry noodles with mixed sauce and a bowl of red oil cheats to swallow the heart and lungs that have just been shaken out in DADA. .
▲Pang Mei Noodles: Erliang Fat Intestine Noodles
© Brandon
Pea noodles, sausage noodles, mixed sauce noodles, beef noodles… So which bowl is the small noodles?
Strictly speaking, these noodles are not small noodles; in a broad sense, these noodles are all small noodles.
Small noodles, to be precise, is a bowl of plain noodles without toppings. (Attention! There is lard!)
Sima Qingshan, the author of “Boiled Chongqing”, told me that Chongqing originally had no small noodles, only Dandan noodles. After becoming the companion capital, officers and dignitaries from all directions gathered, “Xiajiang people”(In the past, Chongqing’s people in charge of the people in the lower reaches of the Yangtze River are collectively called) brought a lot of ground, including sauerkraut sea cucumber noodles, crucian carp noodles, and hoof flowers Noodles… and the word “small noodles” is a modest term used by the people of Chongqing—you can’t eat meaty dishes, just take a spoonful of lard, add more seasonings, and eat noodles.
▲Chongqing Chaotian Gate during the Anti-Japanese War
© China National Geographic
This statement is similar to the Yangchun noodles in my hometown of Suzhou. Yangchun noodles are smooth, and smooth noodles are cheap, but they have to have a nice name, so “Yangchun noodles” came into being.
Such a bowl of small noodles seems simple, but very particular.
(knock on the blackboard, the following are all knowledge points!)
The noodles are alkaline noodles, with a slight yellow color, and a strong taste. They are divided into three types: fine noodles, leek leaves and wide noodles. The default is fine noodles. If you want leek leaves and wide noodles, you need to tell the boss in advance. Another hidden item is “water leaf noodles”, which is actually fresh noodles made that day, which is relatively moist but has a softer texture.
▲The wide noodle version of beef noodles
© Kimi
The soup is mainly bone soup, but it can be divided intoThere are two types: “dry distillation” and “noodle soup”. Under “noodle soup”, there are two types of “narrow soup” and “wide soup”. Traditional Chongqing noodles are mainly noodle soup, but in recent years, dry distillation has become more and more popular.
The most important thing is the seasoning: Fuling mustard, Yibin sprouts, peanuts, sesame paste, soy sauce, lard, chives, ginger…and the spicy oil that infuses the soul. Each has its own recipe. Your home is Erjingtiao, my home is Chaotian pepper, and his home is a mixture of three kinds of peppers. Erjingtiao enhances the fragrance, Chaotian pepper increases the spiciness, and Qixing pepper increases the spiciness and color… Finally, pour Boil with hot oil. The sophisticated gluttons will count the time to make chili, and the aroma will be even different.
▲A dazzling array of peppers on the Chongqing market
© Kimi
According to the different seasonings, small noodles generally have two flavor types: “pasty” and “spicy”. “Spicy” refers to the smell of spicy oil with a hint of burnt, relatively longer aftertaste; the taste of “spicy” is more distinct and intense. Two flavors, rich and frugal.
A bowl of “vegetarian noodles” cooked in strict accordance with this procedure is the real Chongqing noodles.
Second, the topping universe of small noodles
Small noodles, looks simple and straightforward, reads cute and kind, and carries the straightforward character unique to Chongqing people.
It is precisely because of this that more and more restaurants use “small noodle restaurants” as their own, and more and more people begin to use “small noodles” instead of Chongqing noodles. Especially in places other than Chongqing, the word “noodle restaurant” cannot represent one’s ownChongqing style, “Chongqing small noodles” is a word that makes people feel at once.
Gradually, small noodles became the unified name for Chongqing noodles. Pea noodles, sausage noodles, beef noodles, sauerkraut noodles, pickled pepper noodles… are all included in the sequence of small noodles, forming an orderly and innovative small noodle topping universe.
The first time I ate mixed noodles in the flower market on Minsheng Road, Luzu Temple had not been renovated, and Luohan Temple had not been renovated. In the morning in Chongqing, I could hear the screams of peddlers carrying poles. Indeed, both sides of the flower market It’s a colorful flower shop with mangzi hot pot, hot and sour noodles, and mutton noodles interspersed with it. It’s also the Chongqing in “Crazy Stone”.
▲Huashishi pea noodles: Two or two pea mixed with a fried egg
Since it is called “Pea Miscellaneous Noodles”, you must order a bowl of Peas Miscellaneous, “Retort, two or two.” After listening, a maid did not lift her head, she skillfully took out a white porcelain bowl, and then scooped out the seasoning from a large iron basin, and two or two small noodles were hot, a large spoonful Peas, a large spoonful of “meat sauce” is poured into it, and the last thing that comes out is a dazzling bowl.
At this time, I realized, “Pea” and “Pea”, it turned out to be “Peas” + “Miscellaneous sauce”. Miscellaneous sauce is pork bean paste. When eating, I used two chopsticks to put the noodles and peas Stir the miscellaneous and bottom seasonings thoroughly, inhale a big mouthful, the peas instantly become puree, and the spicy, salty, fresh and fragrant wrapped in miscellaneous sauces and seasonings pour into your mouth. The more you eat, the hotter you eat, the hotter you eat, the aftertaste It is a fragrance of beans.
My first experience with Fatty Intestine Noodles was the famous Gao Fat Mei Noodle Shop. At that time, it was also called “Fang Mei”-as soon as I walked in, I saw the chef braising the fatty sausage in the kitchen and hurriedly ordered a bowl. Fatty intestines are very troublesome to handle. First, you need to use salt and vinegar to remove the smell, then stew and fry them to taste, and bite it, which seems to be broken, and then chew once or twice to bring the fat into your throat in. The noodles are soup noodles, with Chongqing version of braised soup, which is different from the sweet and bright braised sauce in Jiangsu and Zhejiang. Chongqing’s braised soup, the original soup has a chili aroma, with two or two small noodles, delicious Shanghai famous Fuxing Zhonglu large intestine noodles.
▲Gao Fat Mei Noodle Shop: Erliang Fat Intestine Noodle
© Dianping Dianping
There are also beef noodles, the beef noodles I dream about, and the Chongqing beef noodles I think about day and night. Before Shibati was rebuilt, the taste of Shibati glasses noodles was really good, with butter fragrant and beef rake. The only problem was that the soup base was too spicy, like a thick layer of chili powder. It must be served with a bowl Soy milk; when the Lu Zu Temple Chen Ji Yongying Noodle House was still open, the texture of firm beef really fascinated me for a while.
Now, my heart is changed to Yubei’s Huoxian Beef Noodles-Shishibati Spectacle Noodles. The shop only makes two bowls of noodles, beef soup noodles and beef noodles. The original soup has a tangy taste of butter, and the noodles have a bit of noodles. The beef is two pieces of beef tendons and two tendons. There is plenty of beef flavor in the delicious flavor. I couldn’t help adding two!
▲Huoxian Beef Noodle: Erliang Beef Noodle
A friend from Wanzhou told me that Chongqing noodles are not as good as Wanzhou noodles.
“When we eat noodles in Wanzhou, there are dozens of toppings, such as miscellaneous sauce noodles, eel noodles, twice-cooked pork noodles, cowpea noodles, pickled pepper noodles, tripe noodles, and even liver and waist stir-fry. Bowl of noodles. Can you imagine a noodle restaurant that can cook the liver and waist together?”
It’s really not easy. The liver and waist are processed in different ways, the noodles are different, and the heat that needs to be fried is also different. A liver and waist stir-fry can stir the liver and waist until they are just cut off at the same time. It is delicious and crispy. It must be a good Sichuan restaurant. . If the noodle shop in Wanzhou dared to make fried noodles with liver and waist,, And it’s still fried toppings, that taste must be good.
I have never been to Wanzhou. Local friends recommended three restaurants to me: Wanxian Noodle Shop, Laoyanfang Shed Noodles, and Haibao Noodles. If you have friends from Wanzhou, you are also welcome to recommend some to us.
3. Late night noodles and early morning noodles
Chongqing small noodles can be distinguished by the type of noodles or the person who eats the noodles.
There are roughly two types of people who eat small noodles. The first type is office workers, and the second type is the night travel god. These two people have different clothes and temperaments, and the crowds occasionally cross each other, and they own the city in two time periods.
The reason why Chongqing has become an Internet celebrity city is “benefits” from the topography of the Yuzhong Peninsula, which is actually not comfortable for locals. Since the beginning of this century, Jiangbei District and Yubei District on the opposite bank of the Jialing River have gradually begun to attract more and more Chongqing residents because of their relatively flat terrain, and now they have formed mature communities. There are more locals, so there are more small noodle shops, and the big waves are scouring the sand, and the standards of the small noodle shops are getting higher and higher.
On Songshi Road next to Jindao Garden in Yubei District, there are even 4 noodle restaurants known in Chongqing, known as the “Four Great Beasts of Jindao Garden”. Wumianzhuang, Pingyuan Spicy Noodle House, and Wenxinyuan Noodle House.
Yes, that’s right, Xiao Zhan’s Wenxinyuan Noodle Restaurant is also among them, and the business is already very good.
Starting at 5 o’clock in the morning, as the city gradually wakes up, these small noodle shops have opened one after another. The rolling shutter doors are pulled up, the seasoning is ready, the plastic bench is taken out, and the ingredients are brought back. The bottom of the soup gurgled and began to attract the first group of elderly people who got up early for morning exercises, and then successive office workers. There were shirts and ties, shorts and T-shirts. A group of people shared the same world.
▲Bench Noodle Village: Bench Noodle
© Dianping Dianping
The four noodle shops have similar styles, all of which are heavy and spicy, with plain noodles and simple toppings. Every Chongqing citizen who eats small noodles for breakfast usually takes no more than 10 minutes from ordering to eating noodles and finally wiping his mouth. 10 minutes later, I set off on my way, and the complex taste of noodles just started to permeate my mouth. At this time, I took a closer look, and my mind flashed “today’s peas are fragrant, yesterday’s fat intestines are not clean.” A few thoughts, there is a feeling of “marry first, love later”.
▲Pingyuan Spicy Noodle House: Special small noodles
© Dianping Dianping
Time flows constantly. From noon to night, Chongqing at this time is more occupied by other cuisines-hot pot, Jianghu cuisine, home cooking, chain restaurants…
Some people say that hot pot is the face of Chongqing, and small noodles are the lining of Chongqing. I think so. Because even if the small noodles are popular all over the country, for Chongqing people, it will always appear when they need it most.
At midnight, Xiao Mian put on a uniform and made her debut.
Chongqing at night is always foggy, the unique topography makes the city appear blurred and magical, and it also contributed to the birth of the dock culture. Chongqing people like to talk about the rivers and lakes, and the rap groups in Chongqing like to sing the rivers and lakes. L4WUDU’s song “Fog” “Du Night Talk”, singing Chongqing’s Yingge Yan dance, feasting and feasting, singing community, brotherhood, family affection… and this kind of rivers and lakes atmosphere is most reflected in Chongqing’s nightlife.
The proud world of Jiaochangkou, Nuts Livehouse; Ninth Street in Jiangbei District, the nightclubs and bars of the whole street, are playing everywhere, playing everywhere, after a 20,000-step dance, the last stop Landed at a small noodle restaurant.
▲Chongqing at night is full of fog
The Muer Jiang Duck Noodle in Qixinggang has been open for many years and has been popular for many years. A few years ago, the boss Mu Ge moved the “Liu’s Jiang Duck Noodles” hidden in the alley to the diagonally opposite side and opened an open and bright front. The dishes are still the original ones, chopped pepper hoof flowers, liver and waist stir fry, red oil and yellow throat, stick bone soup…
And that bowl of tender ginger duck noodles. One or two sides, with the spicy and sourness of minced ginger and pickled peppers, accompanied by blossoming duck meat, the fusion of duck fragrant and ginger fragrant, after three or two mouthfuls, it is still unsatisfactory, and one or two more, so continuous, the thoughts floating in the night Will gradually come back to life.
▲Muer Jiang Duck Noodle: One or two ginger duck noodles
The Erwa County Flower Noodles in Ranjiaba, Yubei District, took another route—heavier oil and heavier flavor. The signature is Junhua Noodles. Junhua refers to the chicken gizzards with a flowering knife, soaked in red and bright bell pepper, then pour a spoonful into the small noodles, and take a bite, as if patted on the Tianling cover, and it will wake you up. , Domineering but efficient.
▲Erwa County Flower Noodles: County Flower Noodles + Fried Egg
© Dianping Dianping
Because of these two special time periods for Chongqing people to eat noodles-either early in the morning or late at night, small noodle restaurants such as 5 Wei Feng Noodles came into being. The business hours are from 21:00 in the evening to 8:30 the next day. Doing two rounds of business, they sell the simplest Chongqing noodles: spicy noodles, spicy noodles, rice noodles, Chaoshou, mixed sauce, beef.
▲5 Weifeng Noodles: Spicy Spicy Noodles
© Dianping Dianping
Whether it’s an early morning noodle or a late night noodle, whether you are a rich man or a wage earner, whether you are a beautiful woman in a short skirt or an otaku in pajamas, whether you are sitting on the road, on a bench, or in a shop, When picking up that bowl of Chongqing noodles, everyone was equal.
Four. Who praised Chongqing small noodles?
So the question is, who on earth is Chongqing Xiaonian popular with?
Some people say that Xiaomian is heavily addicted to boy Xiao Zhan, and some people say that it is Teacher Meng Fei who opened noodle restaurants all over the country.
Yes, nor is it.
Chongqing small noodles are popular among Chongqing people living all over the world. Once back to Chongqing, Xiao Zhan, who went to eat a bowl of authentic noodles quietly first, was from Chongqing. Grandpa Meng, who takes the initiative to bring goods to Chongqing Xiaomian in “If You Are the One”, is also from Chongqing.
Whether it is a star or not, every Chongqing native who loves to eat is a hero who makes Xiaomian popular all over the country.
They took the trouble to recommend Chongqing noodles again and again. Everyone has their own list of small noodles and their own top 50 Chongqing noodles.
They have opened small noodle restaurants all over the world-HAO NOODLE in New York, Wei Xiaonian in Los Angeles, Liu Xiaonian in London…you can find the footprints of Chongqing Xiaonian everywhere.
They even open a lot of Chongqing noodlesTechnical Teaching Class—According to incomplete statistics from Chongqing Small Noodle Association, 10,000 to 20,000 people learn the skills of small noodles in Chongqing every year.
Xiaomian is the lining of Chongqing people. This bowl of noodles is flat and rich, simple but varied. It symbolizes the straightforwardness, enthusiasm, unruly and dexterity of Chongqing people. For Chongqing people, this taste represents “home”.
This article is from the official account:futao Jiufenbao> (ID: Futao Jiufenbao) / a> , author: full brother