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One

“I want coffee.” Many people said so during the epidemic.

After nearly two months of silence, the small cafe on Nanyang Road gradually recovered its vitality.

This path runs from west to east, but it is more than 400 meters, but there are several cafes.

No. 205 Nanyang Road is said to be a “pilgrimage site” for many cafe owners coming to Shanghai. This is a small coffee shop embedded in the residential building, the storefront is only two square meters.

This mini cafe on Nanyang Road is said to have once entered “100,000 RMB per month”

Manner Coffee started from here, and now has about 50 stores in Shanghai, and extends its footprint to Beijing, Suzhou, Chengdu and other cities.

Going towards Tongren Road, there is a Lanjing Coffee and another branch of Manner within 100 meters.

“Jingan is one of the best coffee atmospheres in Shanghai.” The Manner’s coffee girl at Tongren Road Food Court is friendly and talkative.

“There are indeed many cafes here. There are Starbucks and Ruixing next to us, and there is a Wagas over there.” She counted them one by one.

“There is a blue Jing in front, and it is doing very well. The boss opened two stores nearby.”

Even, Manner is competing with himself.

“We basically have a Manner in three steps. There is one on Nanyang Road and one on Donghai Square next to it. They are all on Ruiou, Jingpin, Shanghai Mall and Fengxian Road.”

The competition is so fierce that it is inevitable that Yolo Sense near Shaanxi North Road will be under some pressure. Although there is a place to eat, its coffee price is only 2 yuan more expensive than Manner.

Due to fierce competition, the cafes on Nanyang Road are not priced too high

When asked how long this cafe has been open, Brother Coffee replied, “We have been open for a long time.”

“It’s been four or five months.” He then added.

All kinds of cafes on Nanyang Road can be said to be presentA microcosm of today’s coffee business in Shanghai.

In recent years, the coffee industry in Shanghai has ushered in a blowout development.

In October 2017, Pi Ye, known as the “father of Star Father,” (Peet’s) coffee, opened on the East Lake Road In a shop, seats are hard to come by for a while.

Two months later, “Star Father” shot.

The world’s largest Starbucks baking workshop is located in Shanghai. For a long time, there was a long queue in front of the door.

Starbucks Zhenxing Baking Workshop on Nanjing West Road, people often take pictures at the door

Doutor, the “Japan’s No. 1 coffee brand,” and Tim Hortons, the “Canadian National Coffee”, have all rushed to Shanghai.

Coffee accompany you, Zoo Coffee and other Korean coffee chain brands have experienced ups and downs in the market.

There is also Ruixing Coffee, which has its own topic. It was listed on the NASDAQ in less than two years after its establishment. However, recently, the capital bubble has shattered and broke the glasses of traditional coffeemen.

Seesaw and Manner, the local coffee brands in Shanghai, also performed well. After several years of growth, they have obtained financing and accelerated the pace of opening stores.

For a time, the coffee industry in Shanghai showed a thriving scene. A large number of independent cafes were encouraged and popped up like mushrooms.

The joint survey conducted by Meituan Dianping and Kamen showed that as of June 2016, there were 6,500 cafes in Shanghai, ranking first in the country.

In recent years, digital rubbing has continued to climb upwards. Now type three “cafes” on Dazhongping.comWords, you can get more than 8000 results.

“I heard that some young people who came back from studying abroad or worked in foreign companies, because they like coffee culture, gave up high salaries to be baristas and opened cafes,” said Zhang Yinfa, general manager of Jialumeng Coffee Trading Co., Ltd.

Baristas are usually young and full of energy

During his ten years in the industry, the entire coffee industry has undergone great changes.

“When I first started, many people didn’t understand coffee, only Nestlé Instant Coffee.” Zhang Yinfa said.

“Now, many people will not only go to the cafe to drink coffee, but also make their own at home. This is a great improvement.”

“I once brought Japanese colleagues to visit the cafes in Shanghai. They were surprised that Shanghai has developed to this point. They feel that Shanghai is on the rise.”

“Although the overall level of Shanghai cafes is still somewhat uneven, some good cafes have already surpassed Japan.”

“In mainland China, Shanghai ’s cafes should be ranked first. Even better than Hong Kong and Macau.”

Two

Ai Wen’s cafe “Bai Yan Ping Xing” is in line with all the expectations of young female artists.

The store is located on Yongjia Road, which is full of old houses, a large yard, two osmanthus trees at the door, coffee from various origins, and high-value dessert cakes.

On the afternoon of Saturday in mid-March, the sun shone into the yard. There were no seats in the cafe. The guests changed one after another. There were more than 100 customers who went to the store that day.

Weekend afternoon, the business in Ai Wen ’s cafe is good

Everything seems to be quiet, but only Ai Wen knows the difficulties.

She called the store “Baiyan Pingxing 3.0” because before that, there was a failed “1.0”.

Since I fell in love with coffee in 2008, Ai Wen read books, went to training courses, and went to the coffee bean production area, becoming a “coffee serious enthusiast.”

After resigning from the company’s HR position, in 2017, she had the idea like many young women in literature and art: Why don’t I open a cafe by myself?

The location is carefully selected on Hankou Road near Raffles City People ’s Square. Ai Wen used to pinch the meter at the crossroads to calculate the flow of people. The large number made her happy.

She paid a monthly rent of 20,000 yuan and won a store of 20 square meters.

At the time, the small store ’s Manner became popular, increasing the amount of coffee produced while reducing expenditures. It was reported that when the founding store ’s business was the best, “monthly income was 100,000”, which brought a small cafe with a take-out model. .

“Baiyan Pingxing 1.0” is also such a takeaway window shop. In Ai Wen’s vision, this small cafe should be the same as abroad, the coffee is cheap, you can take it away after you buy it, and you want to drink it again.

“However, the real environment gave me two loud slaps.” Ai Wen said.

“At that time, I only sold coffee, but the coffee there wasn’t just needed, and there were several cafes around.” She recalled, “The amount of cups I make in a day is about 20-30 cups.” / p>

An article calculates that in places like Shanghai where rents and labor costs are high, the average take-out cafe needs to sell more than 200 cups a day to make money.

Seeing a loss every day, after seven months, Ai WenClose the shop with pain.

However, after all, I couldn’t let go of the dream of “opening a cafe”. After going through the adjustment of “2.0 Studio”, Ai Wen was eager to move and started the idea of ​​opening a store.

Ai Wen opened the new store on the foreign-style Yongjia Road

This time, she learned from the previous lessons. In addition to selling coffee in the store, she also sells cakes, tea, and various peripheral products to increase the customer price as much as possible.

When we tried to open the business last year, just at the time of the sweet-scented osmanthus, the business was booming.

On January 18 this year, “Baiyan Pingxing 3.0” officially opened, and is preparing to show its talents in the opening year. Who would have been caught off guard by the new crown epidemic.

The cafe cannot be opened, but the rent of nearly 40,000 a month has to be paid. The wages and various bonuses of the three baristas cost more than 30,000 labor costs per month.

Ai Wen said: “I have been crying too much this year.”

Fortunately, she has two hands in preparation. When she opened this store, she had a plan to “use the store to bring traffic to the e-commerce platform.” During the epidemic, she adopted the “Plan B”-let the e-commerce platform save the store losses.

The baristas were transformed into “Eighteen Line Anchors” and sold coffee beans on the live broadcast website. With the concerted efforts of the team and the help of the old guests, they finally survived the crisis temporarily.

On Yongjia Road, Baifen is still lucky.