The night is the world of food.

Editor’s note: This article is from Economic Observer, author Rao Xianjun.

“Although we are always alive, every day and night is a feeling of love.”

At three o’clock in the middle of the night, Kar knocked down the paragraph he saw in his circle of friends. Three or four night owls praised him and turned it forward. The last circle of friends was Kar’s “circle friend” Min. Published 14 minutes ago, the content is “I don’t like to stay up late, just used to steal some time from the night.” Here is Kar’s comment – you are too literary.

The circle of circle friends is not a circle of friends, but a circle of dark circles. Kar said that every night owl that is late at night is mixed with “black circles”. They have similar characteristics – they can’t sleep at night. I slept well during the day, but the reasons for everyone staying up late are strange. Therefore, in the dead of night, when you brush out a “circle friend” state, you can always make Kar feel happy. “Some are in Judy, some are in the string, no matter what you are doing, it makes me feel that I am not fighting alone.

When I don’t know what state to send, Kar will send a “hungry” red envelope to show the sense of existence. His recent take-away orders are between two and four in the middle of the night. Skewers, fried chicken, pizza, and health porridge, the total amount of each order is more than 80 yuan, “Is it so late, not good for myself?”

How big is the spending power of people who sleep late?

Ai Rui Consulting’s “White Paper on Sleeping Young People in China in 2019” shows that 48.7% of contemporary young people fall asleep after 11 pm and 15% after 12 pm. At the same time, in order to “save” the sequelae of late sleep, more than 51.9% of the night party is willing to pay more than 1,500 yuan for maintenance, and 7% of the night party is willing to invest more than 4,500 yuan.

How big is the impulse of people spending at night?

McKinsey’s survey shows that 65% of urban consumption occurs at night, and large stores account for sales from 18:00 to 20:00 every day, more than 50% of all-day sales. The data for “Never Nights in New York” shows that in a year, the New York night economy brought in $29 billion in GDP and $11 billion in employment.

An extreme example of verifying nighttime spending power is that a small group of late-sleepers become “LoseSleep”, who send invitations to normal sleepers, as long as they wake up early and get up early, they will be based on each other’s sleep time. toThe other party pays money to encourage the other party to go to bed early, and even the case where the other party pays 1,000 yuan for each hour of sleep.

“Insomnia slaves” or “use the most expensive skin care products”, the demand for nighttime consumption is growing, and the literary art films, dramas, performing arts, enjoy the massage, pedicure, and the carnival 趴, 蹦迪, 歌歌, small to roadside food and beverage stores, large commercial real estate operators, “night market” is reshaping and rejuvenating at a vigorous pace.

From 5 pm to 3 am

“Hey, do you have a new hungry/US group take-out order, please handle it in time.” Today’s take-out order number has reached 203, the clock pointer on the wall went to the middle of the night, Li Delong took over The skewers in the hands of his younger brother Li Dechang continued to roll on the grill. In the order they set in the usual order, Li Dechang will be responsible for the customers in the store to mix cold dishes and wine, and Li Delong barbecue, one hour later. At two o’clock, the responsibilities of both parties will be interchanged.

Opening from 5 pm to 3 am, they will change nine times in total. Each person will have five barbecues and five drinks. Li Delong said that because he has to keep standing and flipping the skewers, the work of the barbecue is relatively Tired, the work in the store is rather relaxed, so the five hours of drinking is actually the time of rest.

Li Dechang, who is less than twenty-five this year, doesn’t really feel too tired, but he knows that Li Delong, who is nearly forty years old, will be exhausted during the last business hours, so he often takes the last two hours of barbecue work. I used to open the door at 5 o’clock in the afternoon and close the door at one o’clock in the morning. I didn’t forget the automatic order taking of the takeaway one night. I found that the order quantity in the middle of the night was quite a lot, and it was extended to the present time. For my brother, the last two Three hours is already very sleepy and tired.”

The night time of the restaurant is greatly extended, and Li Delong’s shop is just one of them. The “Alibaba “Night Economy” Report shows that from 23:00 to 24:00, more than 83% of the word-of-mouth merchants are still open. After 24 o’clock, the proportion of word-of-mouth merchants still operating is more than 60%.

There is a marginal spread of demand brought about by takeaway, and of course, it cannot escape the changes in people’s living habits.

Seven o’clock in the evening, nine o’clock in the evening and twelve o’clock in the middle of the night are the three peak periods of the take-out orders in Li Delong’s store. “Six o’clock is dinner, and orders at 9 o’clock are usually overtime. These two time periods Usually spicy and spicy, vegetables and grilled taro pieces are sold the most, orders are relatively large, because there are many people eating together, to take care of everyone’s taste, after twelve o’clock, there are more small orders, usually staying up late People are hungry and have a mouthful. The people who come to the store during this time period are also the most.”

These three time periods are also the fastest time to sell wine. The gathering of friends of three or two is inseparable from wine. Li Delong cooperated with the draft beer bar next door. In order to supply wine to Li Delong’s barbecue restaurant, it was 11:00 in the evening. The closed draught beer bar hired a night shift staff, Li Delong said, “plus me.Our cleaning aunt, we also counted two jobs.

From takeaway to roadside booth

In Li Delong’s store, the most common ones are customers in twos and threes, and small groups of more than five or six people are beyond the scope of reception. In the small shop of 30 yuan, only two or three benches and a small table can be placed. Therefore, for a while, Li Delong simply took the bench and the table and only took the takeaway. “The building of civilized city, urban management Tell us that we can’t put a small table on the side of the road in the future, we can only take out and take it out.”

This makes some customers who like to sip and drink in the Li Delong store quite complained. The garlic aubergine of the signature is taken home and there is no heat. The freshly baked waist will have some flavor after a while. More importantly, the barbecue that can’t sit on the side of the road and drink and chat around is always less flavorful.

However, at the beginning of this year, Li Delong’s barbecue stalls were placed outside. The urban management department put forward three requirements for Li Delong: one can’t take up too much, and it can be placed everywhere, hindering passers-by; second, it can’t leave oily garbage on the ground. Destroy the image of the city; three can’t generate noise and disturb people in the middle of the night.

To this end, Li Delong bought a brand new folding table and chair, and invited a special sweeping aunt.

A staff member of the Hangzhou City Administration said to the Economic Observer that the tolerance of the nightingale stalls in some cities has improved, and it has given the merchants a certain cushion and development under the general policy of encouraging night economic development. Space is also to meet the needs of the people, but it does not mean that the business can be unscrupulous. If the red line behavior such as disturbing the people and non-compliance is reported, the urban management department will still investigate it according to law.

Since the beginning of 2019, more than 30 cities including Shanghai and Beijing have issued texts to support the development of the night economy. In the most significant catering industry that benefited from the night economy, some policy dividends began to be released.

In the State Council’s latest 20 policies to boost consumer confidence, it is mentioned that it encourages the close integration of major business districts and specialty commercial streets with culture, tourism and leisure, and appropriately extends business hours, opening a late-night business district and a 24-hour convenience store. And special dining areas such as “Deep Night Canteen”, in addition to the support of qualified commercial blocks for outdoor marketing in line with public safety. “We don’t know much about these things, but we can share them outside, especially in the summer. Everyone likes it. We are also happy. It is expected that the down payment will be enough in the middle of next year. It will be almost the end of this year.” Li Delong said.

From BBQ Crayfish to Breakfast Congee Shop

When the late-night barbecue shops like Li Delong are closed, what are the stores in the night of three or four?

The answer may be beyond your expectation. In addition to the 24-hour fast food brand, the breakfast porridge shop has taken over the banner of the barbecue and crayfish. In fact, even in the late night of the barbecue restaurant, the breakfast porridge There are also a lot of sleepers in the store who are “healthy”.At the door, the yellow and blue uniforms of the takeaways are also endless.

Like the late-night dining, the breakfast porridge shop was chosen in advance. Shi Lei’s breakfast shop started preparing breakfast at 4:30 in the morning, but now, the business hours are advanced to 11:30 in the evening.

Shi Lei still didn’t want to understand why the orders for breakfast at night, tofu brain, fried dumplings, porridge, soy milk, etc. began to be delivered through the take-out platform, and the customers who placed the order showed significant randomness, “Breakfast time In the paragraph, the customer is relatively stable, and the time of the nightingale is a single place there, and it is not a regular customer.”

Kar gave an explanation as a “coming person”. “If I have breakfast in the middle of the night, there are only two cases. One is that the barbecue lobster eats more and gets angry. When I get angry, I am hungry in the middle of the night. Now, only the porridge can be drunk; the other is that you suddenly want to drink, there is no reason. These two situations are of course random.”

In any case, since the demand is real, even the traditional catering industry, such as the breakfast store, will start to change before the new demand, and new formats are also emerging.

The 2019 Chinese White-collar Night Consumption Survey Report (hereinafter referred to as the “White Collar Report”) released by the US Mission Review shows that more than 65.2% of white-collar workers are dissatisfied with the current nightlife, in addition to the traditional nighttime consumption industry. White-collar workers are expecting more developments in new night entertainment such as independent cinemas, late-night canteens, custom-designed private kitchens, craft beers, and nighttime exhibitions.

Compatible with the richness and extension of the nightlife format, the supply time of public services began to increase.

For example, in July 2019, Beijing announced a two-way extension of the operating hours of Lines 1 and 2 during a specific time period, while Shanghai established a night district chief system and announced that the pilot would relax the nighttime position. Control, increase the night bus line in the surrounding area of ​​the night market.

In fact, the quality of public services is exactly what consumers demand for a healthy nightlife. According to the White Collar Report, more than 51.9% of white-collar workers believe that the biggest factor affecting their enjoyment of nightlife is “convenience of travel”. In addition, more than 28.7% of white-collar workers believe that public security is the basis of a good nightlife.

Operator Nuggets

In the measures announced by the State Council to encourage the night economy, the “aggregation zone” has become a key word.

The gathering of the traditional night market is actually a natural gathering of nighttime living in the living area, such as the famous nighttime snacks in various cities, the gathering of bars, etc. Shanghai’s Chenghuang Temple and Beijing’s Sanlitun are not as good as.

And such a city night economic landmark, can it be built by the operator’s resource aggregation? Hangzhou Xintiandi Group has tried to create a product of the night economic upgrade iteration period – Vigor Park.

Dong Sunhua, Deputy General Manager of Hangzhou Xintiandi Commercial DivisionIt is said that the emergence of Vibrant Park has caused dozens of times of nighttime traffic in Xintiandi Park.

In this neighborhood, it covers the largest bar OT bar in East China, the first solar circus show in Asia, “X illusion”, the large-scale lighting exhibition of Time Park, late night dining hall, high-end hotel, e-sports entertainment, etc. In the eyes of Dong Sunhua, the vitality of the night economy has brought about a tremendous change in the entire park.

The same change is the way of operation. Dong Sunhua said that the night economy is not just a replacement of traditional business operations in time. The whole operation ideas and models need to be adjusted and explored.

For example, with the extension of business operations in the region and the special needs of the night economy, a 24-hour service hotline has been set up in the Xintiandi Park in Hangzhou, which has strengthened security and patrol power in the district. The police office, “When it comes to the night economy, it is always inseparable from the wine. Considering a large number of concentrated people, we have invested a lot in the safety of users.”

Traffic factors have also become the focus of daily operations. Dong Sunhua said that within the park, the team ensured the stability of daily traffic and people flow by optimizing the street parking system, temporary parking system, and temporary cancellation of road isolation. Also in contact with relevant government departments, I hope to be able to add a night bus system.

These efforts to transform “sunset” into a 24-hour uninterrupted operation are not easy, but the benefits are also at hand. The largest OT bar in Vitality Park is open from 10:00 in the evening to close at 7:00 the next morning. The daily traffic is more than three or four thousand, and it is full of people during the holidays. These stores represented by the bar have greatly extended the entire Hangzhou. The operation time of Xintiandi Park, around these incremental lengths and consumers, catering, hotels and other multi-consumer chains have also ushered in a steady stream of incremental consumption, creating a large number of night employment opportunities.

The night market under the economic turmoil has been reshaping, and commercial real estate operators have been added. The Chaoyang Heshenghui, a subsidiary of Hesheng Commercial, became the target of Beijing’s leading research and development of the night economy. The IKEA-built gathering test will delay the opening hours until 24:00, Yuanyang Ledi Port, Kerry Centre, Vientiane City, Joy City, Longhu Sky Street and other commercial complexes are preparing to join the night market stage with a small trial.

This is an extra growth cake, and it is in the air, with data-supported Beijing gathering, its “Summer Shopping Spree Night”, extended the weekend operation time by 2 hours, in exchange for a 16% year-on-year increase in passenger traffic. Sales increased by 11% year-on-year. Dong Sunhua also said that although there is no detailed statistics yet, the benefits of the extended operation time of Hangzhou Xintiandi at night are enormous.