This article is from the public number:Hydrogen (ID) : qingyuanzi007) , author: phoenix, drawing from the title: vision China, the original Title: “Double TenA beauty, don’t look at the brand to see the ingredients”
Under the self-salvation of the value of the face, how is the beauty commercial building based on the “component party” cast?
Astaxanthin, niacinamide, boehmine, squalane, arbutin… These oysters are no strangers to consumers who are keen to buy skin care products. These consumers have one thing in common, and they have higher requirements for transparency and safety of skin care ingredients. They have a proper noun, called “component party.”
Wein Consulting’s “2018 Double Eleven Beauty Care Sales Ranking and Consumer Research” shows that 45% of consumers have an understanding of cosmetic ingredients, 17.2% The product will be clearly marked with the professional ingredients in the name.
With the rise of the Internet and the upgrading of consumption, many short video sharing platforms represented by Vibrato and Xiaohongshu are gradually improving the “experience domain” for people to buy skin care products, and the team of constituent parties has grown.
But now, the constituent party has not only referred to specific consumers, but has also developed into a strong momentum in the skin care industry.
Beauty brand, upstream foundry, beauty KOL, dermatology professionals… All the links in this business chain are red-faced under the guise of the market. A commercial building based on the constituent party is growing taller.
01 Brand: A revolutionary battle with the trend
In the past two years, the “nicotinamide” which is mainly used for whitening and blemishes has been used as an example. The Baidu Index shows that from 2017, the number of searches for the term “nicotinamide” has risen markedly, and it has reached a new peak every year on shopping spree such as “Double 11” and “6.18”. On November 11, 2018, the number of single-day searches for niacinamide reached 4,328.
The number behind an ingredient is no longer as simple as “signifier”, and the commercial meaning of “referring” is undoubtedly more attractive to all types of skin care brands. Therefore, in the past two years in the market, a large number of skin care products with ingredients as a selling point have been born, and the qualifying between brands is undergoing rapid changes.
Search for the keyword “component party” on the beauty platform small red book, the products appear complex and the prices vary widely. There are tens of dollars of the cheap word-of-mouth product “TheOrdinary”, the main ingredient concentration is high, the price is cheap and affordable; there is also a bottle of 30ml essence of thousands of dollars in the United States Duke University dermatology honorary professor Sheldon – Pinar created skin care Brand repair can be.
Take anti-wrinkle essence as an example, the composition is equivalent, the former is 98 yuan a bottle, the latter official price is as high as 1490 yuan. The difference between the two is in addition to the endorsement of the brand, the most important thing is the ratio of ingredients. Compared to the “TheOrdinary” 100% high-concentration “raw barrel” type of sales, Xiuli can pay more attention to the scientific ratio and combination of ingredients. It can be seen that for the “component party”, “science” is the best weapon to take out their pockets.
“Whether it is ingredients or ratios, you can slap big names, and the effect is really visible.” The user named “Naga” is sharing her experience on Xiaohongshu.
The sharing of countless constituent parties like her makes the original international big name feel pressure. From the concept of adding, to the real thing, Lancome and Estee Lauder in the composition and technology of the contest can be seen; the “my lady” skin care products of the sea blue mystery is also a big fuss, its essence cream With its “magic active extract of algae extract” as a selling point ingredient, it has spread all over the world.
The new domestic brand HFP relies on the main high-concentration nicotinamide skin care products, which exceeded 1 billion sales in three years. Last year, it directly squeezed into the Tmall “Double Eleven” beauty category Top10 list.
Some products burst red overnight, while others rely on the party’s vents to achieve a “wind-up”.
The old skin care brand Olay Oil (OLAY), once used as a “mother’s brand”, with a nicotinamide-based ingredient The essence of the dew – the light white bottle again turned red, sales soared.
According to the 2019 fiscal year announced by P&G on October 19In the first quarter of the year, sales in the beauty department increased by 5% year-on-year, and won the “Best Outstanding Contribution Award” for $3.289 billion, and its net profit increased by 20%. In this regard, P&G’s explanation is due to the increase in high-end product innovation and marketing investment, among which SK-II and OLAY’s product portfolio strategy achieved double-digit performance gains.
“OLAY can be recovered in a short period of time, and its first-mover advantage in nicotinamide propaganda provides an opportunity for it.” Yi Gu, founder of the beautiful practice, once said that through years of market education, nicotinamide has been among consumers. With a broad understanding, consumers have already equated OLAY with niacinamide.
In addition, upstream foundries and raw materials suppliers are also taking the lead in the market. Chengye doctor cooperated with Dezhixin, an internationally renowned raw material group, directly using the patent ingredient SymWhite377®, which is the patent ingredient of Dezhixin. Shandong Furuida Pharmaceutical Group, which focuses on the development of hyaluronic acid raw materials, launched hyaluronic acid as the core component. Skin care brand Yu Lian.
At present, on the supply side, a large wave of new products with the main ingredients are on the way to compete for the market; on the demand side, under the cultivation of the brand, the carefully selected “grass” carnival is opened.
02 KOL: “Buy and buy” market guidance
The process from zero to one is inevitably difficult. For all kinds of raw skin care terms, consumers need time to accept. Therefore, behind the constituent party, there is a market-oriented education that the brand spares no effort, as well as a variety of marketing routines.
In view of professionalism and credibility, medical professionals with cosmetic engineering or dermatology have joined the army of product ingredients. They focus on and research cosmetic formulas and ingredient lists, sharing their opinions and purchasing decisions with their fans.
In the cooperation with skincare experts in marketing and promotion, the brand side is not sloppy. L’Oreal China Vice President Chen Yu said that for each content of the promotion, it will be repeatedly scrutinized internally. Consumers should be told what skin care knowledge, what kinds of skin problems should be explained, and which skin care habits and techniques are appropriate.
According to him, based on the demand of consumers in the “professional degree”, the professional content writing and quality control of L’Oréal brand communication is completed by the “Medical Education Department”. Such departments are often only specialized by large pharmaceutical companies. set up.
And quickly catch the eye of the consumer, greet through exaggerated expressivenessIn terms of the entertainment needs of users, KOLs are undoubtedly the most important role in this link.
From a certain perspective, they are more like a bridge between brands and consumers. Tell the consumer what ingredients can solve the skin problem, the right medicine. At the same time tell the brand side, how the consumer’s feedback, the market is keen on what kind of things.
From the point of view of communication, compared with the brand side, the beauty bloggers of “civilian status” as “consulting leaders” are more likely to give the public “intimacy” and “credibility”, communication effects and The ability of goods must also be more convincing than the brand itself.
Small red books, Taobao, and vibrato have just brought huge online dividends for brand promotion. The KOLs who have gathered here have spared no effort to compete for fans. On the occasion of the double 11th, “Li Jiaqi” was busy with rounds of “fighting” wars. The realizing KOL’s live broadcast brings tens of millions of orders, and the brand is naturally willing to pay more.
According to Cass data, 89% of the beauty KOLs in the TOP100 are the commercial cooperation orders, and the beauty KOL is highly likely to be picked up by the brand repeatedly, with 40% of the beauty. Makeup KOL has received more than 10 commercial orders.
Ingredients are gathered around the sources of information they recognize, searching for information, and communicating with each other. They tried to accomplish the self-salvation of “Yan value” through skin care products, and in the process of “growing grass” and “drawing grass”, they also promoted their own growth, and also brought more sufficient “innovation” power to the supply end.
In recent days, another set of data has refreshed the sales record of the skin care industry. At 0:00 on October 21, 2019 days, the cat double 11 pre-sales opened, and the Estée Lauder brand only sold for 25 minutes, and the transaction volume reached nearly 500 million, exceeding the turnover of the double 11 all-day last year.
The new record is still refreshing, under the vent, the ingredients are already new bricks on the cosmetics industry building.
This article is from the public number: hydrogen subspace (ID: qingyuanzi007) , author: phoenix